Yeasted doughs
Path of yeast existence
Fresh yeast is my go-to yeast. If you can’t get
fresh, substitute a third fresh yeast weight for
instant dried yeast – e.g. 15 g (½ oz) fresh yeast
= 5 g (⅛ oz) dried instant yeast. See more yeasty
details, including a yeast check guide on page 19.

Dough degrees part I
Chilled, overnight proofing doesn’t require warm
liquid to start – room temperature 20°C (70°F)
is fine. Fresh milk in doughs is best fully boiled
THEN cooled, killing any enzymes that would
prevent the fluffy buns you deserve.

I like my butter at around 10°C (50°F) and sliced
(not cubed) so it doesn’t take forever to knead in,
yet not so soft it smears.

Flour facts
Choose bakers’ (strong/bread) flour at around
12–13 per cent protein to provide (after
kneading) a sturdy meshwork that will expand
to accommodate the carbon dioxide produced
by the fermenting yeast. Low-protein flour
will make slumpy buns. Gluten is listed on the
nutritional panel as protein. If protein is 12g per
100 g, the gluten is 12 per cent. I like to augment
the white bakers’ flour with a little wholemeal or
spelt. It adds a subtle nuttiness and makes fluffier
yeasted doughs.

Just what I kneaded
Gluten forms in yeasted doughs when liquid
hits the flour, but extra extensibility comes from
kneading. Small dough amounts in stand-mixer
bowls sometimes don’t get effective kneading
action, so scrape the sides and look for the
dough developing a moist, fibrous appearance
rather than a clean ball. For most of these sweet,
enriched doughs, I don’t require peak gluten like
a sourdough does, but I do want a little. To test
gluten, use the windowpane test: oil your fingers,
then tease a clump of dough into a palm-sized
sheet. If it tears really quickly, knead longer or rely
on the folds to develop structure.

Foldin’ times
Profesh bakers do coil folds at regular intervals
after mixing/kneading. This action develops
strength in the gluten, and evens the dough
temperature. It can be used in lieu of machine
kneading for softer, hand-mixed doughs. To
fold, wet your hands lightly (to avoid sticking).

Push both sets of fingers under the middle of
the dough, lift the dough up around 20 cm (8 in)
away from the container, then allow the dough to
fold over itself as you lay it back down. Spin the
container 90 degrees and do this again. Doing a
few sets of two or three folds every 30 minutes
makes a fluffier dough.